I review Gastropolítica: una mirada alternativa al auge de la cocina peruana (2023) by María Elena García, focusing on her interpretation of the Peruvian gastronomic boom as a historical process that, while pursuing national resurgence, maintains class, race and gender structures rooted in the coloniality of power. García explores the actions of gastropolitical elites and the subaltern subjects who develop forms of resistance and negotiation, while also considering interspecies relations. The collaboration between internationally renowned chefs and local food producers is often established in terms of inequality, reinforcing the racialization of indigenous and Andean peoples, as well as symbolic and economic violence against women.
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